Where to eat

Most food is covered as part of your tour package, although meals in some of the large hotels can cost up to £40 extra

Chogyal Lhamo A quality lunch stop in the middle of Trongsa township. The family run restaurant serves tender homemade noodles in a tasty vegetable broth – finely chopped beef and some coriander flakes garnish the bowl, then chilli-rich aezey (salsa) rounds out the meal for some added heat. Trongsa town centre Karma’s Coffee This was the first coffee shop in Bhutan and it’s still the best. Karma learnt his barista skills in Australia and his upstairs café offers light meals and cakes. Perfect for when you need a break from chilli and rice. Phendey Lam, Thimphu, 00 975 1 718 1920 Raven Restaurant Expect the likes of chicken curry and classic Bhutanese dishes laced with long chillies. It’s easy to find near the taxi stand in downtown Punakha. Deep-fried samosas and chilli chop (battered chilli) are also popular with the locals. Khuruthang, Punakha Sherab Dema Farmhouse Sherab and her family operate a private dining experience for travellers. They prepare buckwheat noodles and pancakes that are the foundation of Bumthang cuisine. The feasts cover a wide range of traditional dishes and there’s way too much food – even for the hungriest of guests. Bumthang Shushila Restaurant Not far from Paro farmers’ market, taxi drivers hang out and order their momos (dumplings) from here. Most days there are buffalo momos, a crowd-pleaser packed with buffalo mince, onion and cabbage inside folds of pastry. Cheese and potato momos are another favourite. There are also curries, rice and chilli dishes. Paro TNW Sweets Across the road from the Lobesa farmers’ market, this little sweet shop sells classic Hindu treats. Its speciality is ras malai, prepared fresh every day. The delicate pillows of buffalo curd are drowned in thick sweetened milk. One serving is never enough. Lobesa