Wine match

Vic­to­ria Moore sug­gests wines to drink with chicken liver pâté

Olive - - Contents - Words and recipe VIC­TO­RIA MOORE Pho­to­graphs SAM STOW­ELL

These days, the chicken liver mix­ture I make to spread on toast is Ital­ian in flavour – chunky and filled with capers, an­chovies, gar­lic and olive oil – all salty and vine­gary, and slightly feral. No sur­prise then that it likes Ital­ian wines – reds more than whites. An un­clas­si­fied san­giovese or a cheap chi­anti, with its spikes of acid­ity and dusty taste of sour cher­ries, are usu­ally the per­fect wines to hurl into this rus­tic, shouty con­ver­sa­tion. But the recipe I’ve used here is a dif­fer­ent crea­ture. Made with a big slab of but­ter, as well as a dol­lop of cream, it’s more French in style – lux­u­ri­ously creamy and rich. I like to eat this with a rounded, mel­low white wine with curves that feel slinky against the pâté’s smooth­ness. An oaked chardon­nay is the best wine to bring out its golden glow. If you like the com­bi­na­tion of fruit and savoury (I don’t usu­ally, but this is one of my ex­cep­tions), then top the pâté and toast with tiny pieces of date – the sweet vanilla from the oak in the wine will make the whole thing taste even more lus­cious. It’s es­pe­cially good if you al­most burn the toast. To cus­tomise this recipe to suit san­giovese rather than oaked chardon­nay, serve the pâté with vine­gary cor­ni­chons, or throw a few capers into the mix­ture be­fore it’s cooked. Ramekins of this pâté can be frozen once they’re cooked, so it’s worth mak­ing a large batch – just seal with clar­i­fied but­ter and cool com­pletely be­fore freez­ing.

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