Menu of the month

A stunning menu for an autumn dinner from Oldroyd

Tom Oldroyd’s eponymous restaurant is a snug little affair with three tables in close proximity to the teeny kitchen downstairs and a few more upstairs. It’s set in an ex-café in London’s Islington. The use of banquettes along the walls on the upper floor gives an airy feel even when they’re full, which they always will be, because this is a restaurant every neighbourhood wants. Oldroyd worked for the Polpo group and this menu also features sharing plates like silky cod’s roe with radishes and croquettas. Larger dishes include grilled pork ribeye with lentils and salsa verde, and crab tagliarini Provençal with brown crab rouille. There are three puds, including a chocolate mousse with salted pistachio praline and raspberries. A brunch menu is on offer between 10am and 4pm on weekends, but don’t expect the obvious. There are eggs but served with tagliarini, bacon, berkswell cheese and roast garlic, or fried with a cabbage hash, Cumberland sausage and gravy. You can book upstairs tables, but for chef watching downstairs come early.