Menu of the month

A stun­ning menu for an au­tumn din­ner from Ol­droyd

Olive - - Contents - Recipes TOM OL­DROYD Pho­to­graphs MING TANG-EVANS

Tom Ol­droyd’s epony­mous res­tau­rant is a snug lit­tle af­fair with three ta­bles in close prox­im­ity to the teeny kitchen down­stairs and a few more up­stairs. It’s set in an ex-café in Lon­don’s Is­ling­ton. The use of ban­quettes along the walls on the up­per floor gives an airy feel even when they’re full, which they al­ways will be, be­cause this is a res­tau­rant ev­ery neigh­bour­hood wants. Ol­droyd worked for the Polpo group and this menu also fea­tures shar­ing plates like silky cod’s roe with radishes and cro­quet­tas. Larger dishes in­clude grilled pork rib­eye with lentils and salsa verde, and crab tagliarini Provençal with brown crab rouille. There are three puds, in­clud­ing a cho­co­late mousse with salted pis­ta­chio pra­line and rasp­ber­ries. A brunch menu is on of­fer be­tween 10am and 4pm on week­ends, but don’t ex­pect the ob­vi­ous. There are eggs but served with tagliarini, ba­con, berk­swell cheese and roast gar­lic, or fried with a cab­bage hash, Cum­ber­land sausage and gravy. You can book up­stairs ta­bles, but for chef watch­ing down­stairs come early.

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