Our pro says
There are certain restaurants you go to that are more than just a meal – they’re an overall experience. That’s exactly what you’ll find at Booking Office 1869.
From the moment you walk into the 120-seat dining room, you’re stunned. Whether it be one of the eight huge palm trees, pendant lights with brass leaves or 22-metrelong bar surrounding the original ticket office, there’s no shortage of eye-catching features to take your breath away. Acclaimed Parisian architect Hugo Toro and renowned hotelier Harry Handelsman have managed to bring a real sense of intimacy to this otherwise cavernous room.
The extensive all-day à la carte menu – that the friendly staff are happy to walk you through – has something for everyone. With Patrick Powell (previously of Chiltern Firehouse) at the helm, there’s quality in every dish.
An order of tuna skewers with daikon, shiso leaf, white soy and sesame from the raw bar menu proves to be an early (if not the) highlight of the night, with the freshness of the daikon and richness of the tuna a perfect marriage. It’s made especially enjoyable with a lovely glass of chablis 1er cru from the comprehensive wine and cocktail list, curated with an emphasis on combining the old and new.
For starters, the fried chicken with lime zest seasoning is a delight – each bite cooked flawlessly, with an addictive, tangy edge. But it’s served with yogurt, which I found unnecessary. The steak tartare – made with beef from the renowned O’Shea’s Butchers – with salsa verde and beef dripping toast has a great depth of flavour but I would have liked an egg yolk for richness.
Mains include a seasonal fried fish sandwich with spicy tartar sauce (on this night, it was made with lemon sole) and a grilled pork collar with ravigote and caramelised lemon (I found this too tart and a touch dry). In hindsight, I regret not getting the slow-roasted lamb shoulder cooked in chermoula spices, which sounds sensational.
The salted caramel tart with vanilla cream and bitter chocolate, and brioche doughnut with rhubarb and burnt cinnamon cream, both paired well with an espresso martini – exactly the right finish for this impressive meal.
Bill for two, including service: £213.75 Atmosphere: 9
Service: 8
Food: 7
Total: 24/30