Olive Magazine

Our punter says

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The grandeur of St Pancras Renaissanc­e Hotel sets the scene perfectly as you enter through the lobby and into Booking Office 1869. The 1920s prohibitio­n-style bar at the front is classy and full of City workers socialisin­g after a long day, juxtaposed with the reminder of the 24-hour transport hub a few steps away behind the rear restaurant tables. The theme is a little lost though, with palm trees and beach club music added into the mix.

The drinks menu is extensive and includes classic cocktails alongside others with exciting twists. The clear margarita is divine: smoky and sharp, and served with an ice sphere. The beers are tasty and ice-cold but surprising­ly served as schooners. The wine menu is reasonable and offers a variety of by-the-glass options.

The snacks are a little pretentiou­s, with a ‘raw bar’ consisting of two lonely items: market oysters and Asian-style tuna skewers. But these are well worth the £4-5 price tag – they come in large portions with well thought out condiments. The soft sourdough with whipped salted butter is a great start. Starters are eye-wateringly expensive classics, such as a £15 caesar salad. The mains and sides are posh pub-style dishes with a few twists but we felt we were missing vegan options.

The catch of the day sea bass arrives as described in a huge portion that’s chunky, meaty and filleted. Grilled to perfection, with the flesh flaking away beautifull­y, it soaks up the fennel and shallot escabeche juices and pairs well with the crispy fries. The poussin is crisp but a little on the dry side, and served with simple grains, similar to something from your local high street chicken chain.

Unfortunat­ely, the delicious dinner doesn’t compensate for the incredibly slow service, delayed drinks and inconsiste­nt theme. But it’s a great opportunit­y to enjoy the architectu­re of London’s most beautiful train station.

Bill for two, including service: £122.63

Atmosphere: 8

Service: 6

Food: 7

Total: 21/30

 ?? ?? Taran Dulai is a business consultant who eats out twice a week. Her favourite food is Thai and one of her most memorable meals was at Core by Clare Smyth, although she rates her local Thai food stall in Brixton Market just as highly.
Taran Dulai is a business consultant who eats out twice a week. Her favourite food is Thai and one of her most memorable meals was at Core by Clare Smyth, although she rates her local Thai food stall in Brixton Market just as highly.

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