This is a mix of clas­sic Vene­tian food, such as bac­calà (salt cod) and polenta, and dishes in­spired by the pro­duce and favours that per­me­ate Vene­tian cui­sine

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - When in Venice -

Cros­tini with lardo, rose­mary and honey; a veg­etable stall; Vene­tian-style fsh soup; a bak­ery on McAlpine and Tish’s tour of the city Clock­wise from top left to the house over the bridges (the only way to do it in a city with no cars). We would cook, then eat to­gether in my din­ing room, with its old, slightly lop­sided beamed ceil­ing and marks on the foor from where the ac­qua alta foods when the tide is high. All of that, to me, is Vene­tian food, and I wanted Ben to taste it.

It rained and it poured on the day Ben ar­rived, though the weather did lit­tle to de­ter us. Shel­tered in the warmth of Rosa Salva cafe, sip­ping rich hot choco­late, we dis­cussed the menu for our feast: we wanted a mix of clas­sic Vene­tian food, such as bac­calà (salt cod) and polenta, and dishes in­spired by the pro­duce and favours that per­me­ate Vene­tian cui­sine.

At the Ri­alto, we bought bags of seafood – scampi, clams, mus­sels, scor­fano (a re­pug­nant­look­ing but ex­quis­ite-tasting fsh) – the mak­ings of a fsh soup. We stopped at Casa del Parmi­giano, the cheese and char­cu­terie shop

spices and tomato paste and cook for fve min­utes, un­til the veg­eta­bles have browned and started to soften.

Pour in the brandy and care­fully fambé, then add the wine. Re­duce for a few min­utes be­fore adding the shrimp back in with the stock and toma­toes. Cook for 20 min­utes be­fore blend­ing half the shrimp with all the stock con­tents in a sturdy blender and then pass­ing it through a sieve. Use the re­main­ing shrimp in an­other dish.

Pour the soup into a clean pan, bring it to the boil and sim­mer for 15 min­utes, skim­ming off any scum from the sur­face.

Mean­while, for the ali­oli, place the egg yolk in a mix­ing bowl with the mus­tard and gar­lic. Be­gin whisk­ing and very slowly add the oils to emul­sify with the yolk. As the oils in­cor­po­rate, you can speed up the process. When all the oil has been added, sea­son with salt and pep­per and add lemon juice and vine­gar to taste. Fi­nally, whisk in the saf­fron and its wa­ter.

Sea­son the soup and add the clams, mus­sels and prawns, fol­lowed by the white fsh. Cook for two min­utes, then squeeze in lemon juice and scat­ter over pars­ley.

Serve with toasted sour­dough spread thickly with ali­oli.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.