Lawrence of Arabia’s incredible city of sand
Wendy Gomersall saddles up for a camel trek across the desert to Jordan’s greatest natural wonder
YOUR list of stunning sights to see before you die must surely include the extraordinary, 2,000-year-old city of Petra, cut by man from the huge rose-red rocks of the desert in Jordan. But just down the road, nature has created an equally awesome city of stone. Here, the wind and weather have moulded truly massive towers of granite and sandstone into one of the greatest wonders of the natural world – and the sight of it takes your breath away.
Pretty much untouched by humanity, Wadi Rum, a World Heritage Site, lies almost 200 miles south of the country’s capital, Amman, and it was here that Lawrence of Arabia made his headquarters during the Great Arab Revolt. Director David Lean’s big-screen version of the story was filmed here, too.
This month marks 100 years since T.E. Lawrence first arrived in what was to become the united Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan at the end of the revolt, and by following in his footsteps, tourists can see the country’s very best sights.
Tourism to this spectacular desert of rust-red sand and mountain goes hand-in-hand with the increasing number of experiences on offer for holidaymakers, including Bedouin camps where you can spend the night.
Now, depending on how adventurous you’re feeling, visitors can choose from a range of desert experiences. The easiest is a 4x4 excursion to see the best bits – the majestic stone wall I chose to be photographed in front of was the favourite spot of former Libyan dictator Muammar Gaddafi, the guide told me.
You can also explore by camel like Lawrence (not very comfortable, believe me) or on foot – there are gentle walks, or serious climbs for proper hikers. One of the hardest is to the Arch Burdah Bridge. Do make sure you know exactly what you’re getting – a gentle hike is certainly not the same as canyoning.
Floating 7,000ft above the desert in a hot-air balloon ride with Royal Aero Sports is another available option. But my preferred choice was to just clamber on to the nearest rock ledge and sit in the stillness.
Do stay overnight in a Bedouin tent – it’s great fun, and ours, Captain’s Desert Camp, had comfortable facilities and tolerable food.
Take a cardigan (the temperature falls sharply in the evening) and find a quiet spot to yourself – the
black-velvetoffers magnificent night opportunitiessky over Wadi for Rum stargazing, too, just as Lawrence reputedly loved to do.
What else does Jordan have for the adventurous? Stay at Feynan Eco Lodge in Wadi Feynan in beautiful Dana Nature Reserve and guests can enjoy a cycle ride or sunset hike. If you fancy a spot of canyoning, head for Al Mujib Reserve within the Wadi Mujib gorge – King Abdullah of Jordan has tackled this one, accord- ing to our guide. You come back very wet and tired from wading through rivers and clambering over rocks.
Diving and snorkelling in the Red Sea from Aqaba is extremely popular, but make sure you allow plenty of time for your boat to get out to some nice reefs, not just those a few yards from the main road and massive tankers.
Floating in the Dead Sea is a whole lot easier, of course. In fact, it’s almost impossible to sink in the salty water. There’s a choice of hotels depending on budget, from that old favourite the Dead Sea Spa Hotel to the gorgeous Kempinski Ishtar.
MESSING about in the mineral-packed mud at either is a hoot, though do save plenty of energy, and a whole day, to explore wonderful Petra. Jordan’s top attraction is vast – it’s a 40-minute walk just to reach the famous rock facade called the Treasury. Don’t do it during the hottest time of day, because you’ll frazzle. My advice? Take it at a leisurely pace.
Later, a trip to nearby Petra Kitchen is fun – visitors help a cook prepare the evening meal of scrummy Middle East fare, then tuck in.
Finally, if you’re not completely exhausted, pop back into the ancient rock city for a Petra By Night experience.
You sit in the light of thousands of can- dles in front of the Treasury, listen to a bit of music and storytelling, and try not to get a headache from all the camera flashes going off – it’s pretty touristy. But be patient and wait at the end until everyone else has gone back to their hotels.
Then you can sit quietly, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy some more phenomenal, and silent, stargazing.