ABIGAIL DONNELLY, TASTE food director, @donnellyabi

WHERE? Dublin, London and Paris

A WORK TRIP TOOK ME TO EUROPE,

where I had the opportunity to eat at Lyle’s in London’s Shoreditch, number 38 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. I loved the pared-down space, the impeccable service and the simplicity of the food – there are just a few ingredients on your plate, but they are superlative. I ordered what turned out to be the best piece of meat I’ve ever had; an onglet cut of Dexter beef, chargrilled and served with gem lettuce with miso dressing, grilled green garlic and a simple gravy. On top of that, two of their desserts were hands down the most amazing I’ve eaten in a very long time. The first was the hay custard tart – with the finest, crispiest pastry topped with tayberries, which I’ve never eaten before. They taste like a cross between a raspberry and blackberry. Then there was ricotta ice cream and blackcurrant leaf oil with a dusting of dehydrated blackcurrant. The ice cream is served in a perfect rocher (scoop) and when you break into it, the oil escapes to form a delicious pool.

THE BIGGEST DRINKS TREND

was crisp, dry summer rosé. It was in everyone’s glasses wherever we went in Paris. One of my best memories is sharing a bottle under the Eiffel Tower while snacking on truffle chips.

THE MOST UNUSUAL INGREDIENT

I ate – and absolutely loved – was the violet mustard at Etto, one of Dublin’s award-winning restaurants. It was in a dish of pig trotter carpaccio with cipollini onions and quail egg.

I FELL IN LOVE WITH THE CHOUX BUNS

from Popelini in Paris. The light, airy dough is topped with thin craquelin discs in amazing flavours and colours. I couldn’t get enough of the raspberry, rose and yuzu flavours. Bite into them and out oozes thick, ice-cold crème patissiere.