PAPHOS Cyprus
Early Mediterranean explorers were enraptured by the charms of Cyprus, and in the World Heritage city of Paphos, you have a bit of everything the island offers, from ancient ruins to timeless culinary traditions
Stunning ruins of an ancient city, dazzling Byzantine monasteries and frescoed tombs, and its status as the legendary birthplace of Aphrodite, are just a few of the reasons why Paphos, Cyprus’s smallest city should be on every traveller's list this summer. A World Heritage Site with a thriving café scene, and fresh fish and colourful salads served in the sunshine are even more reasons to head to this 2017 European Capital of Culture in the easternmost part of the Mediterranean, yet only four hours from London.
A city walk takes you along palm tree-lined boulevards, past galleries and boutiques and, to the north, between the ancient ruins of Paphos and the Tombs of the Kings to The Elysium Hotel elysium-hotel.com – and 50km of golden beaches – some wild, others peaceful or entertaining – bordering a sparkling sea. When summer heat threatens to overwhelm, a hinterland of forested hills, painted churches, small wineries and lively tavernas beckon.
Set 80km off the southern Turkish coast, Cyprus has attracted Mediterranean navigators since the earliest times; the island was famous for its cereals, herbs and wine. North-east of Paphos, abandoned stone mills in Letymbou village testify to a breadmaking past; today, you’ll find some locals still following tradition, firing up clay ovens in courtyards to bake the slow-fermented dough that becomes crusty loaves. They may also bake pastitsio (layers of meat sauce, cheese and macaroni) or flaouna, a kind of cheese loaf-within-a-loaf. Dense and chewy, it’s a rare remnant of feast days past. So, too, is resi (cracked wheat pilaf), a wedding banquet speciality unique to Paphos.
These Troodos uplands are the gastronomic heart of Cyprus – terraced hills of vineyards, peach orchards and olive groves, with caper bushes cascading over stone walls and goat-friendly rocky slopes perfumed by wild oregano, thyme, fennel and mint. Much of the population has deserted the land in favour of town life, and vacant smallholdings are a forager’s paradise of walnut, quince, lemon and loquat trees, and the carob, its beans dangling from branches in large clusters. But in the villages, the old tradition of the Cypriot meze lives on. At Stou Kir Yianni restaurant stoukiryianni.com in Omodos, try little dolmades, mint-seasoned grilled halloumi, loukanika (wine-soaked sausages) and afelia (pork with orange peel, cinnamon, cloves and bay leaves).
Wine has been a part of the gastronomic fabric of Cyprus since ancient times, famed for its robust, sweet Commandaria, a wine named by the medieval Knights Templars who made Cyprus their base during the Crusades. There’s space for lighter wines, too, though. In 1,000m-high Vouni Panayia Winery vounipanayiawinery. com the huge pithoi (terracotta pots) that, until a generation ago, held Commandaria wine, have been replaced by modern tanks fermenting grape varietals that are both native (white xynisteri, spourtiko, red ntopio mavro, maratheftiko) and international (cabernet sauvignon and grenache). Lunch on the terrace (booking recommended) is a meze of cos lettuce and wild herb salad, scrambled egg and courgettes, woodland mushrooms; mains include charcoal-grilled meats; and desserts are palouzes (jellies made with grape juice) and sticky filo pastries.
More sweet, local delicacies are on display in Limassol’s covered agora (market). Pause to sample almonds dipped in grape syrup, walnuts, aubergines and quinces preserved in syrup, loukoumia (Turkish delight) and tiny pies filled with sultanas and pumpkin, before you set out to explore this cosmopolitan city which is built of layers upon layers of history.
Westwards, the red-gold setting sun lights up the sky in Paphos, and the bar-with-a-view at the modern and minimalist hotel Almyra almyra.com. Take an evening stroll along the harbour-front to Carob Mill restaurant carobmill-restaurants.com (no need to book), opposite the imposing 13th-century castle. With a cool night-time breeze drifting off the lovely bay and a glass of the Crusaders’ favourite tipple in your hand, the rich past of Paphos feels closer. Especially if you have a dish of orza on your table, its pretty rice-shape no different now from the pasta that was discovered on a 3,000-year-old island archaeological site.