HAIFA Israel
Israel’s third city is its most eclectic, with street food to reflect the cultures that merge under the watchful eye of Mount Carmel, while the sea laps at its toes
Houmous, shawarma, falafel, pitta, baklava. To enjoy these familiar foods at their tastiest, messiest best, they need the touch of an experienced cook and to be eaten in the Mediterranean air. So head for Haifa, a city that spreads dramatically across the northern slopes of Mount Carmel, down to Israel’s Mediterranean shore. Locals will tell you where the best are to be had: the creamiest houmous with salad in Abu Shaker, in the lower city near the port; juicy shawarma (originally lamb or mutton, now also chicken or beef, roasted for hours) from Shawarma Emil, in Derech Allenby; and falafel flavoured with coriander and cumin, doused with tahini sauce and tucked into a pitta with pickles – at HaZkenim (‘old people’) in Wadi Nisnas, an area now the centre of Haifa’s Arab life. This is where a street market spreads over several streets with a plentiful array of local produce. Try the bourekas (small pies) on offer, made as squares, triangles or circles with diverse contents of aubergine, cheese, spinach or meats, and with different pastry – filo, puff or brik (flour and water) denoting the baker’s origin.
Bring your walking shoes with you, for Haifa is a city of steep paths. Start your walk up Mount Carmel through the manicured terraces of the Bahá’í Gardens to the Shrine of the Báb, one of the holiest sites in the Bahá’í faith. Breathtaking views of the city, Akko (or Acre, 30km north) and the coastline unfurl as you climb; visit nearby 19th-century Stella Maris Monastery, built by the Carmelite order that was established by hermits in the 12th century. From here, cable cars take you swiftly down to the sandy beach and leafy promenade of Bat Galim. Nearby, the historic German Colony, named for the German Templars who settled here in the 19th century, is a vibrant district of laid-back cafés, boutiques and nightlife. The modern Golden Crown hotel goldencrown.co.il has lovely views, and breakfasts to set you up for a day’s walking; the hotel Carmella carmellahotel.co.il period charm, sea views and artworks. In the Galilean Fattoush restaurant, enjoy the local way of eating – shared plates of the eponymous salad, houmous topped with mushrooms and garlic, okra in rich tomato sauce, baked spicy-minced veal. Then perhaps take a stroll in Hadar, a neighbourhood that’s home to bric-a-brac stores, second-hand bookshops and Weimar Bauhaus buildings.
Ancient Haifa’s wealth was partly due to its ability to turn marine snails into that glorious, deep-purple dye so beloved by Biblical kings and Roman emperors; its tumultuous history has stretched from occupation by the Canaanites to the founding of modern Israel in 1948, with Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Ottomans and the British in between. Akko shares a similar history, with remains of the old Crusader city both above and below sea level, and an Ottoman walled town with citadels, mosques and baths, on top. The best way to see Akko is from the water; take the ferry from Haifa or book a boat ride. Shop in the souk and at sunset, sample Israeli wines – of grape varietals including cabernet sauvignon, syrah and carignon at Efendi Hotel efendi-hotel.co.il preferably on the terrace.
In the cool Wadi Salib and port area, try Venya Bistro venyabistro.co.il for fish kebab, cauliflower tabbouleh and cheesecake; or Hananal 24 hanamal24.rest.co.il for squid and artichoke salad. Nearby, in Suidan suidan.org a 100-year-old deli, you can indulge in luscious, scrunchy baklava, while you stock up on fragrant dried herbs and spices to recreate the scene at home.